Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Soda Pop Shop Quilt Top


Late last fall I was scrolling through coming collections on the Riley Blake website when I came across the most adorable set of fabrics called Perfect Party by my friend Lindsay (the Cottage Mama). I immediately wrote to our RBD blog tour coordinator and said, "I HAVE to be on this tour!"


I'm completely in love with this fabric collection. The little animals enjoying birthday celebrations together, the border prints, the ribbon flowers, even the colorful plaid designs are all so playful and sweet. And don't even get me started on the panel that includes birthday bunting and larger animal squares that are just perfect for pillows. I can't wait to get my hands on it!


A collection this cute called for something special, so I decided to make my first attempt at a vintage soda pop bottle quilt block. Blocks this large actually come together surprisingly quickly, and I really love the way they look, especially with the novelty prints as soda bottle labels. I worked in a few RBD basics too, mostly the striped prints that I used for the bottle caps and the filler blocks, which remind me very much of party straws with little decorations on them.


This quilt top was a joy to design and sew from start to finish. I've decided that I love it so much that I'm going to have it quilted with a longarm, so I'm packing it up tomorrow and sending it off to a pro. Once it comes back to me and I get it bound, I'll have more pictures to share...promise!

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

Shortcake Panel Patio Placemat Tutorial

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

Since I first posted my original Patio Placemat Tutorial back in 2012, it's received almost 80,000 page views, making it the fourth most popular tutorial on my blog. (The Ellie Travel Case comes in first place, followed by the Malibu Satchel and then the Pixie Basket, for those of you who were wondering! See below for more details...*) When Riley Blake asked me to design a placemat panel to go with the Shortcake collection, I thought it would be fun to create one that could be used with that original tutorial.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

The result is a fun panel, available in 2 colorways, that can be used in 3 ways:

1. Make 4 standard placemats with a simple front and back. The rectangles on the panel are your placemat fronts, and all you need are some batting and backing fabric to sew them up.

2. Make 2 pocket placemats. These include a pocket for the plate and silverware -- really handy for breezy days on the patio so that your paper and plastic tableware doesn't blow away! Pick 2 of the panel rectangles to be the pockets and 2 to be the placemat fronts. You'll add batting and backing fabric to finish them.

3. Use the panel as a pattern sampler. There are 5 extra prints on here along with 8 retro fruit crate label squares, just perfect for fussy cutting a sweet little project of your own design!

Directions are included on the panel for both types of placemats, but I thought I would do a post on here using the fabric so that you can have a step-by-step visual to help you along the way. Here's how you make one pocket version of the Patio Placemat:

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

1. Cut out the 2 rectangles of your choice -- 1 for the pocket and 1 for the placemat front. Seam allowance is included, but sometimes shapes can get a little wonky when they're printed. Don't worry if the rectangle is skewed slightly by 1/8" or so. You need a rectangle that measures 11" x 18". If there's a bit of white along the edges, that will get caught up in the seam allowance and won't show in the end, so don't worry about it!

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

2. Fold the pocket rectangle in half lengthwise with the wrong sides of the fabric together. Topstitch 1/8" below the fold.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

3. Use adhesive basting spray to fuse the wrong side of your placemat front rectangle to an 11" x 18" batting rectangle. (Pins or binding clips will work too, but the spray is so quick and easy!)

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

4. Place the pocket piece on top of the placemat front along the lower edge. Baste in place along the right, lower, and left edges of the pocket to hold it in place.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

5. Measure a line on the pocket 5" from the right edge and sew down that line, backstitching at the start and finish. This will divide your pocket into two sections -- one for the plate and one for the silverware.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

6. Cut out a 11" x 18" rectangle from another piece of backing fabric and use pins or binding clips to hold it right sides together with your placemat front.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

7. Stitch 1/4" from the edge all around the outside of the placemat, backstitching at the start and finish, but leave a 4" gap in the lower edge for turning. Trim the corners and any loose threads.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

8. Turn the mat right side out through the gap int he lower edge, gently pushing out the corners and edges with a knitting needle.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

9. Tuck the raw edges inside the gap in the lower edge, give the whole mat a good pressing, and then topstitch 1/8" from the edge all around the mat to finish.

Shortcake Patio Placemat Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

That's it! To make a standard placemat, just follow the directions above but eliminate the pocket. The wonderful thing about this project is that it's so quick. You can easily make yourself a set of placemats in an hour or less, and these are just the thing for summer picnics and patio parties. If you sew with the panel or any of the other prints, be sure to share photos with me with the tag #shortcakefabric and @fabricmutt. I would love to see how you're sewing with Shortcake!

* For those of you who may have viewed this post before I edited the stats, I had my numbers mixed up the first time around -- sorry about that. The official count of page views for the top four posts on Fabric Mutt (as it stands at the writing of this post) is:

1. Ellie Travel Case Tutorial - 201,021
2. Malibu Satchel Tutorial - 121,505
3. The Pixie Basket Tutorial - 84,963
4. Patio Place Mat Tutorial - 79,891

Nothing makes me happier than knowing that you're all using and enjoying these tutorials that I write for you. It absolutely makes my day!

Friday, March 1, 2019

Shortcake Picnic Medallion Quilt Tutorial

Shortcake Picnic Medallion Quilt Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

Last June while our family was on our amazing road trip back east, I was in touch with Riley Blake about the quilt pattern that I needed to design to go along with my Shortcake collection. There's not a doubt in my mind that I was heavily influenced by the textiles and art we saw in Williamsburg and Mt. Vernon when I finally sat down late one night with a pad of graph paper and my colored pencils in our hotel room and sketched out the diagram that would become my Picnic Medallion Quilt. It seems fitting that the quilt I designed to feature Shortcake, which as I shared in a previous post is really an ode to the joys of summer, was designed while our family was taking our first summer road trip. Just looking at this quilt brings back so many wonderful memories...

Shortcake Picnic Medallion Quilt Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

I sewed up a mini version of this pattern for my Quilt Market Booth last fall, which you can see in all the photos for this post, so I decided to give you the cutting directions for both a mini and a lap size quilt, since I like for you to have options. The mini makes such a cute wall hanging and is a great chance for smaller fussy cutting. As for the larger version...well, I just couldn't think of anything more perfect for a summer picnic quilt than one featuring napkins, plates, and a sweet little picnic basket in the center.

Shortcake Picnic Medallion Quilt Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs

If you make one of these in either size, please share your pictures on social media! Use the hashtag #picnicmedallionquilt and don't forget to tag me @fabricmutt.

Here we go!

Picnic Medallion Quilt Pattern
By Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt

Finished Quilt: 33” square (mini size) or 66” square (lap size)
Shortcake Picnic Medallion Quilt Tutorial by Heidi Staples of Fabric Mutt for Riley Blake Designs
Materials for Lap Size Quilt (less needed for mini quilt size)
1 fat quarter bundle of Shortcake
1 3/4 yd. Riley Blake Red Swiss Dot Reversed
1/2 yd. Main in Royal Blue
3/4 yd. Grove in Red
10” square Riley White Solid
1/4 yd. Riley Red Solid
1/4 yd. Rose Solid
1/4 yd. Petunia Solid
1/4 yd. Riley Royal Blue Solid
1/4 yd. Blueberry Solid
1/4 yd. Boy Blue Solid
4 yd. Berries in White (backing)
1/2 yd. Ribbons in White (binding)

Cutting Directions

Print
Part of Quilt
Mini Quilt
Lap Quilt
Main in Red
Basket cross blocks
Basket





Napkin
Plates
(12) 1” square (A)
(4) 1 1/2” square (B)
(1) 1 1/4” x 7 1/2”  (C)
(1) 1 1/2” x 7 1/2” (D)
(1) 1 1/2” x 3 1/4” (E)
(1) 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” (F)
(1) 2” square (G)
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(2) 3” square (I)
(12) 1 1/2” square (A)
(4) 2 1/2” square (B)
(1) 2” x 14 1/2” (C)
(1) 2 1/2” x 14 1/2” (D)
(1) 2 1/2” x 6” (E)
(1) 2 1/2” x 10 1/2” (F)
(1) 3” square (G)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(2) 6” square (I)
Riley Royal Blue Solid
Basket lids
Plate edging
(2) 1” x 3 1/2” (J)
(20) 3/4” x 3” (K)
(20) 1 3/4” square (L)
(2) 1 1/2” x 6 1/2” (J)
(20) 1” x 6” (K)
(20) 3” square (L)
Peachy in Blue
Borders
Napkin
Plate
(4) 1 1/2” x 9 1/2” (M)
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(4) 2 1/2” x 18 1/2” (M)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Rose Solid
Cornerstones
Plate Edging
(4) 1 1/2” square (N)
(12) 3/4” x 3” (K)
(12) 1 3/4” square (L)
(4) 3” square (N)
(12) 1” x 6” (K)
(12) 3” square (L)
Riley Red Solid
Chain blocks
Plate edging
(16) 1 1/2” square (O)
(20) 3/4” x 3” (K)
(20) 1 3/4” square (L)
(16) 3” square (O)
(20) 1” x 6” (K)
(20) 3” square (L)
Main in Royal Blue
Napkin
Borders
Plates
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(4) 1 1/2” x 19 1/2” (P)
(2) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(4) 2 1/2” x 38 1/2” (P)
(2) 6” square (I)
Grove in Red
Napkin
Plate
Corner cross block
Outer border
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(4) 1 1/2” square (Q)
(2) 1 1/2” x 31 1/2” (R)
(2) 1 1/2” x 33 1/2” (KK)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
(4) 2 1/2” square (Q)
(2) 2 1/2” x 62 1/2” (R)
(2) 2 1/2” x 66 1/2” (KK)
Ribbons in Pink
Napkin
Plate
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Jam in Royal Blue
Plate
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 6” square (I)
Grove in Royal Blue
Napkin
Plate
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Jam in Red
Napkin
Plate
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Ribbons in Blue
Napkin
Plate
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Peachy in Pink
Napkin
Plate
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Berries in Royal Blue
Napkin
Plate
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Berries in Blue
Napkin
Plate
Corner cross block
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(16) 2 1/2” square (S)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
(16) 4 1/2” square (S)
Grove in Pink
Napkin
Plate
(1) 2” x 3 1/2” (H)
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 3 1/2” x 6 1/2” (H)
(1) 6” square (I)
Peachy in White
Plate
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 6” square (I)
Main in White
Plate
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 6” square (I)
Jam in White
Plate
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 6” square (I)
Berries in White
Plate
(1) 3” square (I)
(1) 6” square (I)
Boy Blue Solid
Plate edging
Cornerstones
(12) 3/4” x 3” (K)
(12) 3/4” square (L)
(4) 1 1/2” square (T)
(12) 1” x 6” (K)
(12) 3” square (L)
(4) 2 1/2” square (T)
Blueberry Solid
Plate edging
(8) 3/4” x 3” (K)
(8) 1 3/4” square (L)
(8) 1” x 6” (K)
(8) 3” square (L)
Petunia Solid
Corner cross blocks
Plate edging
(4) 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” (U)
(8) 3/4” x 3” (K)
(8) 1 3/4” square (L)
(4) 2 1/2” x 4 1/2” (U)
(8) 1” x 6” (K)
(8) 3” square (L)
Riley White Solid
Basket cross blocks
(3) 7/8 x 1 7/8” (V)
(6) 7/8 x 1” (W)
(3)1 1/4” x 3 1/2” (V)
(6)1 1/4” x 1 3/4” (W)
Red Swiss Dot Reversed
Center background



Chain blocks background

Napkin background
Middle background

Plate background
Outer background
(1) 2” square (X)
(2) 2 3/4” x 3 1/2” (Y)
(2) 1 1/2” x 7” (Z)
(2) 1 3/4” x 9 1/2” (AA)
(8) 1 1/2” square (BB)
(8) 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” (CC)
(8) 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” (DD)
(24) 2” square (EE)
(8) 1 1/2” x 2” (FF)
(8) 1 3/4” x 11 1/2” (GG)
(64) 1 1/2” square (HH)
(24) 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” (II)
(8) 1 1/2” x 21 1/2” (JJ)
(1) 3” square (X)
(2) 5” x 6 1/2” (Y)
(2) 2 1/2” x 13 1/2” (Z)
(2) 3” x 18 1/2” (AA)
(8) 2 1/2” square (BB)
(8) 2 1/2” x 4 1/2” (CC)
(8) 2 1/2” x 6 1/2” (DD)
(24) 4” square (EE)
(8) 2 1/2” x 3 1/2” (FF)
(8) 3” x 22 1/2” (GG)
(64) 3” square (HH)
(24) 2 1/2” x 6 1/2” (II)
(8) 2 1/2” x 42 1/2” (JJ)

Piecing Directions

Remember, all seam allowances are 1/4”, and always press seams open or toward the darker fabric!

Sew the Center Ring


1. Place 1 of the V pieces, 2 of the W pieces, and 4 of the A squares as shown in the
diagram above. Sew the smaller pieces together in rows and then sew the rows together.

2. Rotate the block so that the cross becomes an X and trim it to 1 1/2” square for the mini
version of  2 1/2” square for the lap size version, being careful to center the X as you trim it.
(You may have slightly trimmed corners but those will be hidden in the seam allowance, so
don’t worry about it!)

3. Repeat with the remaining pieces for the other 2 basket cross blocks.

4. Alternate the 3 cross blocks with the 4 B squares as shown above and sew together in a
row.

5. Sew the C strip to the lower edge of the block above and the D strip to the upper edge.

6. Sew each of the 2 J strips to the lower edges of each Y rectangle. Sew one of these units
to the left and right long edges of the E strip. Sew this unit to the upper edge of the unit from
step 5.
7. Use the G and X squares to make a pair of half square triangles following the diagram
above. Place the squares right sides together. Draw a diagonal line across the wrong side of
the X square and stitch 1/4” from each side of the line. Cut along the line, press both half
square triangles open, and trim to 1 1/2” square for the mini version or 2 1/2” square for the
lap size version.

8. Sew the half square triangle units on the short ends of the F strip as shown above and
then stitch this unit to the lower edge of the unit from step 6.

9. Sew the Z strips to the right and left edges of the center block. Sew the AA strips to the
upper and lower edges of the center block.

10. Sew an M strip to the right and left edges of the center block. Sew the N squares to the
short ends of the remaining 2 M strips and then sew those units to the upper and lower
edges of the center block to complete the center ring.

Sew the Middle Ring

1. Make the flying geese units using the H rectangles and EE squares following the diagram
above. Place an EE square on the right side of an H rectangle, right sides together. Draw a
diagonal line from the upper inside corner to the lower outside corner and stitch along that
line, trimming to a 1/4 seam allowance, and press open. Repeat with the other EE square
on the other side of the rectangle. Repeat with the remaining EE and H pieces until you
have 12 flying geese units.

2. Sew the flying geese units into rows, alternating each unit with an FF strip (pay attention
to the orientation of the flying geese units in the diagram above) and sewing a GG strip to
both long edges of each row.

3. Make the chain blocks using the O, BB, CC, and DD pieces. Arrange the pieces as
shown in the diagram above and sew together. Repeat until you have 4 blocks total.

4. Sew a flying geese row to the right and left edges of the quilt. Sew the chain blocks to the
short ends of the remaining two flying geese rows and then sew each row to the upper and
lower edges of the quilt. Pay careful attention to directionality of the blocks as you go!

5. Sew an P strip to the right and left edges of the quilt. Sew the T squares to the short ends
of the remaining 2 P strips and then sew those units to the upper and lower edges of the
center block to complete the middle ring.

Sew the Outer Ring

1. Make the plate blocks. Arrange your K, L, I, and HH pieces in groups, using the diagrams
in this pattern as a guide to which solid color borders go around which plate centers. Each
block group should have 4 K strips, 4 L squares, 1 I square and 4 HH squares.

2. Sew a K strip to the right and left edges of the I square and then to the upper and lower
edges of the square, centering them on those edges. (Note: the K strips will not go all the
way to the corners, and this is okay.) Place an L square in one corner of the block, right
sides together, sewing a diagonal line to cut across the corner. Trim the seam to 1/4” and
press open. Repeat with the other L squares. Now repeat this same process with the HH
squares in every corner to finish the block. Do the same with the remaining 19 plate blocks.

3. Sew a row of plate blocks. Alternate the blocks with II pieces, sewing them together as
shown above. Sew a JJ strip to either long side to finish.

4. Make the corner cross blocks. Arrange the U, S, and Q pieces as shown above for one
block. Sew the pieces together in 3 rows and then sew the rows together. Repeat to make 4
blocks total.


5. Sew a plate block row to the right and left sides of the quilt. Sew a corner cross block to
each of the short ends of the remaining plate block rows, and then sew them to the upper
and lower edges of the quilt. Sew an R strip to the right and left edges of the quilt, and then
sew a KK strip to the upper and lower edges of the quilt to finish the top.

6. Quilt and bind as desired.

I hope you have a wonderful time making this quilt. And don't forget to be on the lookout for
Shortcake fabric at your local quilt shop!
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