The Cubby Pack Tutorial

We had our first official day of school yesterday, and I'm so happy to slip back into our homeschooling routine again. No babies in this house any more -- everyone's in elementary school now, with my oldest entering fifth grade this year. There was a time when I missed my life in an actual classroom, feeling a bit lost and left behind here at home. Not any more. I think I feel more content with life than I ever have before. These days spent working, teaching, sewing, designing, helping, sharing -- they are so full, so good.

The beginning of a new school year has always been one of my favorite things, and what better way to celebrate than with a free tutorial? I've been promising a pattern for this combination backpack/tote bag for a while, and who better to model the Cubby Pack for you but my own little Bear. She was so excited to wear it for the first time today!

This pattern is meant for a child, but you could easily make it work for an adult by just making the straps longer. It's actually a surprisingly simple project to sew. The most complicated part is probably threading the backpack straps, and rather than reinvent the wheel, I just send you over to a brilliant tutorial by the clever folks at Colette Patterns who have explained things far more clearly than I ever could.

I'm giving you just the basic backpack pattern here, but this is so easy to customize. Add an inner pocket or zipper pouch for smaller items. Ditch the patchwork and use just one fabric for the exterior to make it a quicker finish. Add one or two more leather closures to the top to keep things buttoned up even more firmly. For me, a tutorial is a launching pad for even more great ideas. I love to see how people play with my patterns to make just what they need!

Wouldn't this be a fun project to sew for (or even with!) your favorite student? If you make one, be sure to share a picture with all of us on Instagram -- tag it #cubbypack and tag me too @fabricmutt!

Okay, here we go!

Materials and Measurements

Finished size: 9 1/2" wide x 10" tall x 3 1/2" deep

Fabric:	For:	Cutting:
21 cotton print scraps or 1 mini charm pack	Front exterior panel patchwork	21 squares 2 1/2 x 2 1/2”
1/2 yard linen	Front ext. panel Back ext. panel	1 rectangle 7 x 14 1/2" 1 rectangle 13 x 14 1/2”
1/2 yard batting	Exterior interfacing	2 rectangles 13 x 14 1/2”
1/2 yard white apple print	Lining	2 rectangles 13 x 14 1/2”
1/4 yard red floral print	Tote handles	1 rectangle 3 x 16”
1/4 yard Pellon Craft Fuse fusible interfacing	Tote handles interfacing	1 rectangle 3 x 16”
1 1/2  yards 1 1/2” wide cotton webbing	Main straps Buckle straps	2 pieces 24” long 2 pieces 3” long
Leather scrap	Bag closure	1 strip 1 x 2 3/4”
Findings: 4 metal slides (1 1/2” wide), 1 metal snap, adhesive basting spray, chopstick or turning tool, binding clips, ruler, rotary cutter

Sewing Notes

All seams are 1/4" unless otherwise stated.
Press seams toward the darker fabric or open if you prefer.
RST = right sides together
WST = wrong sides together

Tutorial Instructions

1. Sew the 21 patchwork squares together in 3 rows of 7 as shown in the photo above. Sew the 7 x 14 1/2" linen piece to the lower long edge of the patchwork piece to form the exterior front.

2. Use the adhesive basting spray to fuse the wrong side of the exterior front and back panels to the 13 x 14 1/2" batting pieces. Topstitch 1/8" below the seam between the patchwork and linen on the exterior panel. Quilt as desired.

3. Place the two lining panels RST and trim a 2 1/2" square from both of the lower 14 1/2" edge corners. Sew the two panels together along the sides and lower edge, but do not stitch along the open corners. Also be sure to leave an opening of 6-7" along the lower edge for turning later on. Cut 2 1/2" squares out of the lower edge corners of the exterior panels also, but do not sew them together just yet.

4. Box the corners of the lining. Push down on a side seam so that it lies directly on top of the seam that holds the lower edges together, creating a triangle of batting on that side. Use your ruler to measure off a 4" line down the side of that triangle facing the lining (the side seam should be resting at the 2" line). Use a pencil or fabric marker to trace that 3" line and then use your ruler to measure and cut a 1/4" seam just beyond that (which will measure 3 1/2" long). Check that your seams match up before stitching down the pencil line. Repeat on the other side of the lining.

5. Make the tote handles just as you would make double fold bias tape. Fuse the wrong side of the handle piece to the Craft Fuse interfacing (following the manufacturers instructions). Fold the piece in half lengthwise, press, and then unfold. Now fold the long sides of the rectangle in toward the center fold and press again. Fold along that center fold again, sandwiching those raw edges in the middle, and stitch 1/8-1/16" from the edge along both long ends of the resulting 3/4" wide handle. Cut the piece in half so that you have two pieces, each 8" long.

6. On the exterior front panel, place the raw ends of one handle piece along the top edge of the panel so that the inside edge of each end lines up with the right and left sides of the center patchwork square (see above photo). Baste in place 1/8" from the top edge. Repeat with the back panel and other handle, using the placement on the front panel as a guide.

7. Attach one half of the metal snap to a short end of the leather strap according to the manufacturer's instructions, centering it about 1/2" from the short end. Center the other short end of the strap on the top edge of the back exterior panel, RST, and baste in place 1/8" from the top edge. Save the other half of the metal snap for later.

8. Make the backpack straps using the Colette tutorial found here. (Even though this tutorial uses a longer length for the long strap, it will still work for this project.) Place the finished straps RST against the back exterior panel, tightening them up so that they are as short as possible while still lying flat against the panel and not wrinkling up the fabric (see photo above -- this will keep them out of the way while you sew). Baste the ends of the long straps in place on the top edge of the panel just to the right and left of the handles. Baste the ends of the short straps in place on the right and left sides of the panel, about 1/2" above the cut out square in each corner. (BTW the photo above is after I sewed together the panels in the next step but before I boxed the corners. I had forgotten to take a photo of the strap placement and wanted to make sure you could see it before I moved on!)

9. Sew the exterior panels together along the sides and lower edge, leaving the cut out squares open just as you did with the lining -- though without the opening in the lower edge for turning. Box the lower corners of the exterior as you did in step 4 above. Turn the exterior piece right side out.

10. Slip the exterior piece inside the lining piece with RST, matching up the side seams and holding them together around the top opening with binding clips. Sew all the way around the opening. Reach in through the gap in the lining and pull the exterior of the bag out through the lining, pushing out the corners gently with a chopstick and pressing them.

11. Tuck the raw edges inside the lining gap and stitch them closed 1/8-1/16" from the edge. Push the lining down into the bag and carefully press it one last time.

12. Center the other half of your metal snap about 1/2" from the lower edge of the top middle patchwork square on the exterior front panel and fasten it in place according to the manufacturer's instructions. Finish the bag by topstitching 1/8" from the upper edge all the way around the top opening. (I recommend that you start on the back behind the left strap so that you can make it all the way around without having to stop and move straps out of the way.) Fill up your Cubby Pack with school supplies and send your student off to class!

Happy sewing, my friends!

Candied Snowflake Pillow

Like so many of you, I was saddened to hear that Quilter's Newsletter was going out of print at the end of this year. Thankfully, I was able to get one project published in their special Christmas edition which comes out this month: my Candied Snowflake Pillow.

I love taking traditional blocks and updating them with more modern fabric choices. The design of this pillow is based on the Texas Treasure block, first published in the 1930's. Bright candy colors and a black and white dotty background give this pillow a mid-century vibe. It's a cheerful take on Christmas sewing that can stick around for a while after the tree comes down.

Look for the pattern in "Best Christmas Quilts from Quilter's Newsletter," in shops now through mid-October.

The Pixie Basket Tutorial

Say hello to your new favorite quick project! This cute basket is the perfect size for binding clips, mini charm packs, or any other small notions you want to collect in your sewing room. It also makes a darling little gift basket for tiny presents (hint: Easter is coming!). Beyond that, you can use this to hold jewelry, crayons, office supplies, party favors, candy, clothespins, makeup, recipe cards, small toys -- just about anything! Best of all, you can easily sew one of these -- even two if you're quick -- under an hour.

Finished Size: 2 x 3 x 4 1/2’’

Fabric:	For:	Cutting:
10'' square pink kitty print	Exterior basket accent	Cut 2 strips 1 1/4 x 8’’
10'' square green stars print	Exterior basket main	Cut 2 rectangles 3 1/4 x 8’’
10'' square pink scissors print	Basket lining	Cut 2 rectangles 4 x 8’’
10'' square batting	Exterior interfacing	Cut 2 rectangles 4 x 8’’
10'' square muslin	Lining interfacing	Cut 2 rectangles 4 x 8’’
5’’ twill tape, 5/8’’ wide	Basket handles	Cut 2 pieces 2 1/2’’ long
Other supplies: adhesive basting spray

1. Sew a 1 1/4 x 8’’ accent strip along the top 8’’ edge of a main exterior rectangle and press the seam open. Fuse the wrong side of this exterior panel to a 4 x 8’’ rectangle of batting and quilt as desired. (I simply topstitched a line 1/8'' above the seam on the accent strip.) Repeat with the pieces for the other exterior panel.

2. Clip or pin the two exterior panels together with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Make sure that the seams where the accent and main pieces meet match up on both sides. Sew all the way around three sides of the exterior panels, leaving the 8’’ sides of the accent piece open. Be sure to backstitch at the start and finish of your seam.

3. Box the lower corners. Push down on a side seam so that it lies directly on top of the seam on the lower edge of the main panel, creating a triangle of batting on that side. Use your ruler to measure off a 3’’ line down the side of that triangle facing the basket (the side seam should be resting at the 1 1/2'' line). Use a pencil or fabric marker to trace that 3’’ line and then use your ruler to measure and cut a 1/4’’ seam just beyond that. Check that your seams match up before stitching down that pencil line. 

Repeat on the other side of the basket.

4. Turn the exterior right side out and push out the corners of the basket. Fold a piece of twill tape in half so that the short ends meet. Baste the raw ends together to form a loop. Center the loop on a side seam of the basket so that the raw ends line up with the opening and baste it on place on the exterior of the basket. Repeat with the other piece of twill tape on the other side seam.

5. Fuse the wrong side of a lining piece to a 4 x 8’’ piece of muslin using the adhesive basting spray. Repeat with the other lining panel and muslin piece.

6. Clip or pin the two lining panels together with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Sew all the way around three sides of the exterior panels, leaving a 3’’ gap in the middle of the lower 8’’ edge and the other long side open. Be sure to backstitch at the start and finish of each seam.

7. Box the corners of the lining exactly as you did in step 3. Keep the lining turned inside out.

8. Slip the exterior inside the lining (right sides of the fabric touching) and clip or pin all the way around the top opening, being sure to match up the side seams. Sew all the way around the opening.

9. Pull the exterior of the basket out through the gap in the lining. Tuck the raw edges of the lining back into the gap and close it up by sewing 1/8’’ from the edge, backstitching at both ends. Push the lining down into the basket and press it carefully.

10. Topstitch 1/8’’ all the way around the opening. To give the basket a more boxy shape, press all the creases at the corners and edges.

That's it! If you make a Pixie Basket of your own, please be sure to share your pictures on Instagram and Pinterest. Tag it #pixiebasket and tag me @fabricmutt.

And for those of you who, like me, won't be able to make it to QuiltCon in Pasadena this weekend, my friend Julie of The Intrepid Thread is hosting a fun online event called QuiltNon. If you make one of these Pixie Baskets and post it on February 18-21, you'll be able to get in on the fun -- that means prizes, my friends! She'll be sharing all the details on her blog soon, so be sure to head over there to check it out. And if you want to pick up a few fabric goodies from her shop while you're there, well that's okay with me...

Happy sewing!

The Stationery Kit Tutorial

As promised, here's the free tutorial for the Stationery Kit I shared with you on Monday for the Paperie Blog Tour.

This little kit is perfect for holding stationery (of course!), to-do lists, recipe cards, EPP projects, embroidery projects, school flashcards, craft supplies, and whatever else you brilliant people come up with to tuck inside.

I think this would make a fabulous Valentine's Day gift. Just pop in a few goodies from the dollar section at Target (notepads, short pencils, page flags, maybe even a gift card), and you've got an adorably useful gift for your kid's teacher, your best friend, or just about anyone else in your life! If you make one of these and share it on Instagram, please be sure to tag it #stationerykit and tag me too @fabricmutt.

Okay, let's sew!

Cutting Instructions

Cut 6 low volume squares 2 x 2'' for cover patchwork.

Cut 6 saturated color squares 2 x 2'' for cover patchwork.

Cut 1 rectangle 6 x 6 1/2'' for back cover.

Cut 1 batting rectangle 7 x 11'' for cover interfacing.

Cut 1 rectangle 3 1/2 x 5'' for envelope pocket.

Cut 1 muslin rectangle 2 1/2 x 3 1/2'' for envelope pocket interfacing.

Cut 1 rectangle 3 1/2 x 4 1/2'' for envelope exterior.

Cut 1 muslin rectangle 3 1/2 x 4 1/2" for envelope exterior interfacing.

Cut 1 rectangle 3 1/2 x 4 1/2'' for envelope lining.

Cut 1 rectangle 6 1/2 x 10 1/2'' for kit lining.

Cut 1 muslin rectangle 6 1/2 x 10 1/2'' for kit lining interfacing.

Cut 1 rectangle 7 x 10 1/2'' for inside pocket.

Cut 1 muslin rectangle 3 1/2 x 10 1/2'' for inside pocket interfacing.

Other Materials

2'' long piece of twill tape

2 metal snaps (You can substitute other fasteners like Velcro or a hair elastic & button if needed!)

adhesive basting spray

chopstick or turning tool

spool or other object with a round edge
pencil

*Note: all seams 1/4'' unless otherwise noted

Make the Cover

1. Arrange the 2 x 2'' squares in a 3 x 4 grid as shown above, alternating low volume and saturated prints. Sew them together to form a 5 x 6 1/2'' cover.

2. Fold a 2'' long piece of twill tape in half, wrong sides together, so that the short ends meet. Baste the short ends together 1/8'' from the short end. Center those short ends on the left side of the bottom left hand square of the cover and baste in place.

3. Use the adhesive basting spray to fuse the wrong side of the patchwork cover to the 7 x 11'' piece of batting. Keep the cover toward the right 7'' side so that there will be room for the back cover as well. Quilt as desired.

4. Sew a 6 1/2'' side of the back cover piece to the left 6 1/2'' side of the front cover patchwork piece. Use adhesive basting spray to fuse the wrong side of the back cover to the left side of 7 x 11'' piece of batting and quilt as desired.

5. Trim the excess batting off the cover. Your final rectangle should be 6 1/2 x 10 1/2''. 

Make the Envelope

1. Fold the 3 1/2 x 5'' rectangle in half, wrong sides together, so that the short ends meet and slip the matching piece of muslin between the two halves of fabric. Top stitch 1/8'' from the fold. 

2. Following the manufacturers instructions, center the stud end of the snap about 3/4'' from the pocket fold and attach securely in place.

3. Stack the pocket on top of the lower short end of the envelope lining piece so that the edges match up and baste in place. Fuse the 3 1/2 x 5 1/2'' piece of muslin to the wrong side of the envelope exterior with adhesive basting spray.

4. Place the pocket lining and envelope exterior pieces right sides together with the top of the envelope (the flap that you'll be able to see) pointed away from the pocket. Use a spool to trace and trim rounded edges on the flap corners.

5. Stitch all the way around the outside of the rectangle, leaving a 2-3'' gap on one long side. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8'' except for where the opening is.

6. Turn the envelope right side out through the gap, carefully pushing out the corners with a chopstick. Push the raw edges inside the gap, press, and stitch 1/8'' all the way around the envelope. 

7. Attach the socket end of the snap to the flap of the envelope, carefully matching it up so that it will work correctly with the other half of the snap.

Make the Lining

1. Fold the inner pocket rectangle in half lengthwise and press. Slip the 3 1/2 x 10 1/2'' piece of muslin inside, fusing it down with adhesive basting spray if desired, and top stitch 1/8'' from the fold.

2. Place the envelope on the left side of the inner pocket, about 1 1/4'' from the left edge and 3/8'' below the inner pocket fold. Make sure that the envelope flap is open. Spray a bit of adhesive basting spray on the main back of the envelope (not the flap) to hold it in place. 

3. Stitch the envelope down by sewing over the original 1/8'' top stitching on the pocket part of the envelope and then sewing across just underneath where the flap folds down.

4. Fuse the 6 1/2 x 10 1/2'' muslin to the wrong side of the kit lining piece. Baste the inner pocket in place along the lower edge of the lining. Use a pencil or hera marker to trace a line down the center of the lining and the inner pocket, and then stitch over it to divide the pocket and lining in half.

Finish the Kit

1. Place the kit cover and lining on top of each other, right sides together. Sew all the way around the outside of the rectangle, leaving a 3-4'' gap on the top long edge, preferably over what will be the back cover. Trim the corners.

2. Turn the kit right side out through the gap, gently pushing the corners out with a chopstick. Push the raw edges back inside the gap and press. Top stitch 1/8'' from the edge all the way around the cover.

3. Center the socket half of the other snap about 1/8'' from the right side of the cover and attach (both these snaps will go through the inner pocket as well). Attach the stud half of the snap to the opposite side of the kit lining, making sure that both halves match up correctly. Fill the kit with goodies and enjoy!

Pocket Picture Book Tutorial

My little Mouse has been absolutely fascinated by the stack of Pocket Mending Books that's been growing on my sewing table. She begs to look through them every day as soon as she finishes her kindergarten classes, wanting to pore over them by herself -- and then again on the pretext of showing them to her stuffed dog Snuffy. Since it's been tricky to empty the needles and scissors out of the books each time she wants to see them, my husband suggested that I make a special kid-friendly version that the girls can enjoy without any worries of pricked fingers.

These books are actually pretty nifty gifts for the little people in your life. Not only are they small and soft, but they can teach colors, letters, animals, etc. My girls are already planning to use these books when they're playing school or restaurant with their dolls.

I've included two sizes -- one the same as my Pocket Mending Book and the other a little smaller. This is such a fun project for scraps, and it's also perfect for making with your kids. Mouse helped me with some of the sewing on the smaller version. It's also a great last minute present, easily sewn up in an hour. Keep in mind that the more pages you include, the trickier it is to sew (especially on the smaller version). I wouldn't try to fit more than 4 pages in here, but if you're brave enough to add more, go for it!

So here's a tutorial for you, my friends. If you make one, please share it on Instagram with me @fabricmutt, and be sure to tag it #pocketpicturebook.

Have fun!

Supplies & Cutting Instructions

Large Version (finished size: 3 7/8" square)
grey pig print -- 1 square (4 3/8 x 4 3/8") for front cover
orange patchwork print -- 1 rectangle (4 3/8 x 4 3/4") for back cover
batting -- 1 rectangle (4 3/8 x 8 7/8") for exterior
various prints -- 6-12 squares (3 3/4 x 3 3/4" each) depending on how many pages you want (2 per page)
purple calico print -- 1 rectangle (4 3/8 x 4 3/4") for inside of front cover and 1 rectangle (4 3/8 x 4 1/2") for inside of back cover

Small Version (finished size: 3 1/4" square)
border print -- 1 square (3 3/4 x 3 3/4") for front cover
yellow text print -- 1 rectangle (3 3/4 x 4 1/4") for back cover
batting -- 1 rectangle (3 3/4 x 7 1/2") for exterior
various prints -- 6-8 squares (3 x 3" each) depending on how many pages you want (2 per page)
floral print -- 1 rectangle (3 3/4 x 4 1/8 ") for inside of front cover and 1 rectangle (3 3/4 x 3 7/8 ") for inside of back cover

For Both Versions
thread
adhesive basting spray
chopstick or turning tool
pins or binding clips

*All seams 1/4" unless otherwise noted.

Make the Book Cover

1. Sew the left side of the front cover to the right short side of the back cover.

2. Attach the wrong side of the fabric to the batting with adhesive basting spray and quilt as desired.

Make the Pages & Lining

1. Decide what order you want your pages to be in, and then pair up your pages with the right sides of the fabric together. Sew around the top, side, and bottom of the page, leaving one side open.

2. Turn the page right side out, poking out the corners with a turning tool, and press. Stitch 1/8" all the way around the sewn sides, still leaving that last side open.

3. Stack the pages together in the order you want them and baste them together along the open sides, 1/8" from the edge. Sew from the center to the top and then from the center to the bottom of the stack to keep the pages from moving around too much.

4. Place your stack of pages (front down) on top of the front lining piece, so that the basted edge lines up with the right edge of the piece and baste it in place 1/8" from the edge, again sewing from the middle to the top and then bottom.

5. Stack the front and back lining pieces on top of each other with the pages sandwiched between them, checking to make sure that when you open them, they'll be in the correct positions, and stitch 1/4" from the same side where you basted the pages in place. Press the lining open.

Assemble the Book

1. Pin or clip the exterior and lining on top of each other, right sides together.

2. Sew 1/4" all the way around the outside of the rectangle, backstitching at the start and finish. Leave an opening of about 2 1/2" on the short end next to the back exterior piece. Trim the corners without cutting through the stitching.

3. Carefully turn the book right side out through the opening on the short end, using a turning tool to push the corners out, and give the book a good pressing with your iron. Tuck the edges back inside the opening, and topstitch 1/8" from the edge all the way around the outside of the book. Be sure not to catch the pages in your stitching. Close the book and press carefully around the binding to help your book stay closed properly.

Enjoy!